CIS 178 Midterm Image
Furniture U Build
Twich on holiday's How to Build a Twin Bed Frame
Finishing up
Test your pieces, the head board should go together with a tight fit if not adjust it with sand paper. Then test the foot board pieces…
Once the foot board and the head board pieces have been tested for their fit we will be doing a all in one gluing and assembling of each.
On the top of the foot board add the glue, put glue in all the holes and put the wooden dowel in the top board and then in the side, place the top board on then slide the legs on to the sides. We will do the same basic thing for the head board.
Let the glue set… don’t get in a hurry, were almost done.
Once the glue has test all four piece, the head board, the two side boards and the foot board. They should fit like a glove. Nice and tight. On the inside of the side board we will add the L-bracket. Top and bottom, use a point drill bit for the screw/bolts.
So the bed is all together. Looks good. Now we will do the sanding and filling of any ting or mistakes, take the time to really look at the frame for any tings. Sand it, the nicer the job you do will show once you painted or stained the bed frame. Use a broom or brush to wipe away any saw dust.
Now you’re ready paint or stain. If you’re going to paint make sure to use an oil base paint, if the paint needs it use primer. I myself will use primer and paint for the best job. If you have any question on the right paint just talk to the guys at Home Depot when you go in to get the paint.
Tips…
Drilling: to a set depth with a hand drill use painters tape to set the height. Measure the length that you want and wrap the tape around the bit just after that height.
For using the router, measure the distance from the center of the router to the edge to make it easier to set up guides.
Painting: put the paint on in layers, thin coats, take your time and let it dry before adding the next coat (I have the biggest problem with being patient and this is where I get into trouble, I tend to want the project to be finished so rush this part but it always bits me in the butt, so take your time).
Getting the legs ready for assembling
This will require the four legs
The head board panel
The foot board 1” x 6” x 39”
The three 1” x 4” 39”
And the two side boards
Now we need to take two of the 1” x 4” x 39”
Cut the wide to 2 5/8” (this is a little wide but it give us the room to sand the edges nice and smooth
Setup the router
We need the 3/8” round over with bearing and the ½” V-groove
Now we will router the two 1” x 2 5/8” x 39” (pick the nicest side for the top and that will be the side that gets rounded out side edges, do not round ends)
While the router is setup with the rounding bit we will go ahead and round the legs and the side boards
The top side of the two side boards should be rounded
Take the legs and round all the edges
Now we need put a V-groove down the center of both sides of all the legs, this is on the widest side; the center of the V-Groove should be on the glue line. This plus the rounding of the outside edges should take care of most little nicks on the corners of the 2” x 3” x 96” that we started with( don’t spare the wood putty for anything that needs it, it will make all the difference on the finished bed).
Now, the side boards, if you know the average size of a twin bed mattress that’s great. However, for most people that don’t it is 39” x 75”. Our side board are 80” long, this is so we can have a clean edges on the ends, a guide for our router, and an extra 1 ½” on the ends, this makes it so that bed fit in nicely.
So we need to cut the side to 78” long, 1/2” off one side and 1 ½” on the other.
Next, the foot boards
We need the 1” x 6” x 39” and 1” x 4” x 39”…
Down the center of the 1” x 4” x 39” mark a line (this should be 1 ¾” from the outside edge), drill with 3/8” bit at ½”deep, at 4” from each end and one hole at 19 ½”… you’ll need to cut three wood dowels to 7/8” for these holes.
Now we will create the matching holes in the 1” x 6” x 39.
The top edge of both boards should line up, put the glue on the 4” side then put wood dowels in place (if I didn’t say this before put glue in all the holes)
So, now it’s time to start routering the legs… use guide if possible
At 7 ½” from bottom we will use the piece that we cut off the side boards to mark the side board inset, this should be 1” deep (don’t make too many right legs). Do all four legs keeping in mind the right side is just the opposite of the left.
Head board legs…
Measure the total length of the head board panel (it should be 26”), but make sure…
At 1 ¼” from the top of the legs and ¾” from front we will route out a hole ¾” wide, 26” long, 1” deep.
Then we will add the panel top hole.
From the top ½”… use the 1” x 2 5/8” x 39” piece to mark just above the panel hole. But double check everything with your type measure.
Foot board legs…
Measure the foot board piece (it should be 1 ½” wide on the top and ¾” on the bottom – 5 3/8” one side and 3 1/2” on the other)
At 1 ¼” from the top of the legs and 1/2” from front we will route out a hole 1 ½” — ¾” wide, 5 3/8” one side and 3 1/2” long, 1” deep (this should look like the foot…)
From the top ½”… use the 1” x 2 5/8” x 39” piece to mark just above the foot board hole. But double check everything with your type measure.
In the legs we will be adding holes for panel and the foot board. Two holes for the foot board and three holes for the head board panel. Remember these holes to line up with the ones in the panel and the foot board. Using a 3/8” drill bit make the holes 7/8” deep. For placement look a drawing and use best judgment for the grain of the wood.
Then we will be adding their tops
For the foot board — on the top we will drill 1 hole at 3/8” wide and 1 1/8” deep… in the center (3/4” from edge and 19 ½” from the end)
For the head board — on the top we will drill 1 hole at 3/8” wide and 1 1/8” deep… in the center (3/8” from edge and 19 ½” from the end)
Panels
One of the coolest thing on a bed is it head board. However, this means that we will need some kind of panel setup. I will be referring to the different joints as male and female, this should make sense to you.
Using the boards that we already cut… set the routering table to the 1/4″ straight bit — the height of bit 5/16″ — using a guide, set the guide to 3/8″ from the center of the bit (we will be cuting out the center — female joint )
One of the 1″ x 6″ x 39″ — put a 1/4″ female joint down the center of just the bottom
Ten of the 1″ x 4″ x 17 1/2″ — put a 1/4″ female joint down the center of just the bottom
One of the 1″ x 4″ x 39″ —- put a 1/4″ female joint down the center of the top
Now set the 1″ x 6″ x 39″ and the 1″ x 4″ x 39″ aside
Next, you should measure the width of the 1″ x 4″ x 17 1/2″ , my boards are 3 1/2″ wide each
Now, if your boards are the same size use my measurements otherwise you need to take the time to finger out the right measurement for what you have…
If the height of router bit is 5/16” then you will then you will need your center boards…
Cut 6 boards to 1”x 4” x 7” (real size 3/4” x 3 ½” x 7”)
These six boards will get one female side
You still will need 1 more cross. You will be using the 1” x 6” x 7” (real size 3/4” x Cut to fit x 7)
Now we should be ready for the male side
Set 2 of the 1” x 3 ½” x 17 ½” aside
You will need 8 of the 1” x 3 ½” x 17 ½” and the 6 boards at 1”x 3 1/2” x 7”
Set your routering table by only moving the guide, cut a ¼” of the out side
After this is done sand the edges (Don’t go crazy)
Put all the panel pieces together you should still be missing the center
Measure the and cut the width to fit (don’t forget to add the width of the male joint
If everything is right you should have some overhang off the sides
After everything is glued we will be using the router to make a nice edge on both sides so that it is smooth
Everything fits then its time to add glue to the female joint, put together and leave overhang on both sides
After the glue has had time to set / dry, we will use a straight board, and two clamps to help guide us with routering off the extra on the side. This will create a nice edge for putting the panel into the head board legs
Routers Are Fun
Maybe the hardest part of any project is accurately using the router. It is important that you take the time to do this right, for me that means building a few extra things. First, I built a routering table, using let over material from cutting the pieces from the bed as well as some white laminated particle board that I had let over from building some shelfs for my wife.
This is pretty easy but could save a lot of money and headaches. Now, every router will be a little different so if your going to try this make sure your router has at this as a option. If not, Craftman makes great router. So, using a flat board…
Drill a 2″ hole in the center of the board
Next, place the router on the board and mark the holes for bolting to the table, remove router and drill out the holes
pick the nicest side for the top and put in some sink holes on the top so that the screws or bolts don’t stand above the table surface.
You will Need at least 2 guides… One Straight and one for molding. Now, had I thought about this part before leaving Home Depot I would have got a 3 ft angle iron. However, the leftover wood should work just fine.
So this is what my routering aids look like
More gluing
Once the legs have finished drying then we move on to the side board.
We will need the 1″x 6″ x 80″ and the 2″ x 3″ x 80″
We will be drilling five holes in each pieces, down the center of the 2″ x 3″ x 80″ at 2 1/2″ from ends, in the center and at 22″ from the ends. ( 3/8″ drill bit and 1 1/4″ deep for both 2″ x 3″)
Now we drill out the 1″ x 6″ x 80″. From the bottom edge 1 1/2″ and 2 1/2″ from the ends, 22″ from both ends and one at 40″ ( 3/8″ drill bit and 1/2″ deep for both 1″ x 6″)
Next, we will sand the sides with the holes so that they bond better, add glue and them place the would dowels in there holes. Fit the two boards together and clamp…
Cutting the rest of the pieces, well most of them
While the glue is setting up we’ll get the rest of the pieces cut up.
We will start with the next set of pieces that will need to be glued, the side boards.
you will need the two 2″ x 3″ x 96″ — real size is 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ x 96″
cut to 2″ x 3″ x 80″
next is the 1″ x 6″ x 144″ — real size is 3/4″ x 5 3/8 x 144″
cut to 1″ x 6″ x 80″
You should have some leftover pieces from the 1″ x 6″ x144″
cut 2 at 1″ x 6″ x 39″ (this is a finish size so measure twice)
Now, we will be using the 1″ x 4″ x 144″ (real size is 3/4″ x 3 1/2″ x 144″) there are a few different length that we will need
cut 3 pieces at 1″ x 4″ x 39″ (finish size so measure twice)
cut 7 pieces at 1″ x 4″ x39.5″
cut 10 pieces at 1″ x 4″ x 17 1/2″
Time to get started
We will start with the legs,
So we will be cutting out 8 pieces
4 at 2″ x 3″ x40″ note that the real size of these boards are 1 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ They just sale as 2″ x 3″
4 at 2″ x 3″ x 20″
measure twice… another tip to Home Depot will take much longer.
After cutting out the pieces we need to drill out 2 holes in each of the smaller pieces and three holes in the longer ones. the holes should lined straight down the center and about 2 1/2 from the end and in the center of the longer pieces. The drill bit should be 3/8″ or just a hair over and the depth the holes should be a 7/8″, if you got the 3/8″ x 1 1/2″ dowels.
Next, the side with the holes is going to be sanded this is for the best possible glue bond.
After cutting, drilling, and sanding we are ready to put on the glue and place the wooded dowels in the holes.
Put the two boards together and clamp, they need at least 3 clamps on each leg and I put 4 on the longer ones.
What tools do you need
This may very depending on your skill level as well as some tools are easier to use then others. So, what do you need for building…
Safety Glasses are a must (If you’re not going to wearing safety glasses to build this then just leave this site now)
Ear plugs
10″ Miter saw or better
Router and bits — 1/4″ Straight bit, 3/8″ Round over with bearing, 90 degree 1/2″ V-Groove.
Hand Drill
Drill Press (This is optional, it just make life easier. I will just be using hand drill)
Hand Sander/palm sander
Hand Saw or a Table Saw
Clamps — you will need at least five that will fit a 4″ thickness, however, the more the merrier.
and you need a good type measure
Now, I not telling you to go buy any new tools but if you do I recommend DeWalt and Craftman tools; I have never had to replace any of my tools that were made by either of them. There tough, they always work and they do the best job.
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Recent entry
- 2010-10-25
- CIS 178 Midterm Image
- 2010-10-10
- Finishing up
- 2010-10-10
- Getting the legs ready for assembling
- 2010-10-09
- Panels
- 2010-10-09
- Routers Are Fun
Furniture U Build 